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Cartier Philippe Trétiack

Cartier

Philippe Trétiack

Published
ISBN : 9780789300874
Hardcover
80 pages
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 About the Book 

For over half a century, Cartier was the most important jeweler in the world. It was the leading supplier to fifteen royal courts who granted them letters of patent, dealt in many of the most valuable stones and pearls that came on the market, wereMoreFor over half a century, Cartier was the most important jeweler in the world. It was the leading supplier to fifteen royal courts who granted them letters of patent, dealt in many of the most valuable stones and pearls that came on the market, were the leading designers of fashionable jewelry, worked closely with the main fashion houses of Paris and produced some of the most sublime objects dart ever seen. Cartier, whose headquarters were on the elegant Rue de la Paix as early as 1893, had large and sumptuous establishments in St. Petersburg and on New Bond Street in London, where they catered to a fabulously rich aristocracy, as well as on New Yorks Fifth Avenue where they served the millionaires of the New World. But great stones alone could not have sustained the firms international reputation. They excelled in remarkable design once Alfred Cartier and his sons took over the firm from its founder, Louis Francois Cartier. After working largely in the retardataire garland style, inspired by the court life of Louis XV and Louis XVI, Cartier hired Charles Jacqueau as his chief designer. Jacqueau went through the Louvre, sketchbook in hand, mining the decorative arts of Islam, India, Egypt, Greece and China. He was inspired by the Fauve exhibition in 1905 and the Ballets Russes in 1909, and brought all this richness into the realm of fine jewelry. Alfred Cartier also hired Jeanne Toussaint, a sort of Diana Vreeland of the jewelry world, to be his directrice, and Toussaint literally invented the highly colorful Cartier art deco jewelry, incorporating carved Indian gemstones into ravishing necklaces, clips and bracelets, often working in tandem with the most elegant ladies of the time -Daisy Fellowes, the Duchess of Windsor and Mrs. Cole Porter, among others. For them, Toussaint designed vanity cases, cigarette boxes, handbags and endless ingenious accessories that became essential for the well-dressed woman. But Cartiers finest design statements were probably